Valentino 08秋冬高级定制
Valentino 08秋冬高级定制外滩画报
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仙女般的模特们款款走上T台，她们身上层层叠叠的轻盈布料形成雕塑感强烈的卵形轮廓。这样的系列不像是出自一个局外人之手，Alessandra Facchinetti以非常女性化的角度忠实延续着Valentino的风格。这些高级定制装就如蛋白派一样轻盈甜蜜，有镶嵌金银线的裙摆、饰有水晶的蓬松翎颌—Facchinetti说，她的设计灵感来自画家安东尼·梵代克作品中的人物衣服的胸前装饰。整个秀给人以新鲜漂亮的总体印象，而且丝毫不违背Valentino的经典理念：时装是献给女人的精致礼物。
从纸艺效果到黄绿色长礼服上的小毛球，再到鞋子和珠宝上出现的金属小轮，不难看出，Facchinetti在首次高级定制秀中更注重锻炼新颖的装饰手法，而非裁剪。Valentino向来以褶裥饰边为特色，Facchinetti继续将甜美发扬光大，让裙子的背面扬起层层波浪。作为一名年轻的女性设计师，Facchinetti并不热衷于为生活快节奏的现代女性做衣服，女权思想丝毫没有体现在她的设计里。当然，高级定制时装就是为那些只出席鸡尾酒会和舞会的女人设计的—她们必须一直站着，才能保持华服不走样。不难看出，Facchinetti与经验丰富的Valentino高级定制服装工匠们配合默契，方能呈现出大量糖果般甜美细腻的细节。当然，她也从装饰性细节和裁剪两方面下功夫，创造出了独特的廓形和结构。从印在薄纸上的请柬到整场秀洋溢的空气感，Facchinetti都证明了自己并非一个无足轻重的设计师。至于这份考卷的最大难题——Valentino红色礼服，她以一条娇艳欲滴的褶皱雪纺礼服为这场秀画上了完美的句号。
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